 Seram, the largest and among the least known islands in Maluku,
hovers over Ambon, Saparua and lots of sea. Many of Ambon’s tradition
are said to have originated from Seram, including the division into two
sets of customs, patasiwa and patalima, as well as pela alliances
between two villages often located far apart. Seram is also replete
with magic, for the Amboneses anyway, with many anecdotes of men who
can fly, kill at a distance and change their shape at will. While the
western part of the island has lost its mystery, thanks to thriving
lumber industry, the remote eastern mountains is where the magic is now
concentrated.
* MASOHI
Masohi the capital of the central Maluku district is on Seram’s
south-central beach. The plains around the town have received a
population boost, with migrant from overcrowded Saparua and some of the
isolated islands to the south, as well as resettled mountain dwellers
from Seram itself. One group of mountain people, the Naulu with their
familiar red headbands live fairly close to Masohi.
* MOUNT API
Mount Api, active Volcano Island directly opposite Banda Neira last
erupted in the late 1980s but fortunately almost all the lava and ash
fell on the side away from the town. The view from the summit is
spectacular. To climb, go with a guide and get start early to beat the
heat of the day. Count on 20 – 30,000 for a guide, including the canoe
ride to and from Banda Neira. A guide isn’t really necessary since once
you land on the dock on the East Side of Mount Api, there’s only one
way up and it’s pretty obvious. If you’re alone and safety conscious,
you may wish to take a guide since the trail is quite treacherous.
* TUAL
Tual is the capital of Southeast Maluku district and the transportation
for an extensive network of roads and sea-lanes. A half an hour drive
away is Dullah village, where Belaway Museum boasts a splendid
ceremonial conoe, complete with carved decorations. From Tual, canoes
depart daily to the mysterious island of Kei Besar. Occasionally, the
boats from Tual also head for Dobo, the largest town of the Aru
archipelago. This spread of some 25 islands, all mangrove swamp and
low-lying palm forest, is the home of unusual butterflies and flocks of
birds-of-paradise.
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