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Western Papua: Splendid Islands & Unspoilt Mountains |
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The western part of Papua, made up by the Bird's Head and Bomberai
peninsulas as well as the sprawling Raja Ampat archipelago, actually
forms a separate province from the rest of the region. It also tends to
attract a separate set of visitors, ones more interested in marine
wonders or maybe in unique birdlife than in looking for grass-skirted
natives or tribal art. Due to its position closest to the Malay world,
and in fact part of the Sultanate of Tidore from North Maluku before the
Europeans arrived, this part of Papua has indeed been more heavily
influenced by trade and contact with the rest of Indonesia than most.
This is the only area where a few Muslim enclaves have developed,
notably around Fakfak, Sorong and in the Raja Ampat Islands. Handwoven
ikat cloth from Timor and Portuguese cannons via Maluku have found their
way here, and have become parts of the traditional bride-price. Well,
unique as this culture might be for Papua, it won't entice many tourists
to visit. Instead, most come to cruise or dive the Raja Ampat Islands,
quite possibly the most beautiful and unspoilt islands of their size in
the whole country, and also home to the richest marine life on Earth.
Biodiversity isn't all underwater here however, and both the islands
themselves, and the Bird's Head Peninsula as well, are home to a large
number of endemic species of birds and reptiles, many of them only
recently discovered to science and just as beautiful as unique. A good
part of these can be seen in the Arfak Mountains, which also offer a
great chance to do some tough hiking to alpine lakes through traditional
villages consisting of "thousand-legged houses" which are also unique
to this region. While you can't hope to see traditionally dressed
Papuans here any more, you will find them very friendly and less
tourist-wise than those in the Central Highlands. The main gateway to
the Arfaks is Manokwari, the capital of West Papua Province. This is my
favourite city in Papua, with mountains, beaches and islands all within
easy reach. Sorong and Fakfak, the other main cities, are less
attractive in their own right, but the first is the gateway to the
aforementioned Raja Ampat Islands, the other to some intriguing rock
art, caves and World War II relics.
Add up all that, and you should
find this part of Papua every bit as interesting as any of the others!
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